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It's definitely the end of an era ...

Last Kodachrome roll processed in Parsons
(click on headline for story)

I think film will continue to play a role in the future of photography, mostly with those artists who wish to distinguish their work from the masses. The process of shooting, developing, and printing black and white film, especially. There's an organic quality that digital just can't replicate, sort of like the difference between a movie and a live theatrical performance. Or the difference between listening to jazz music on an iPod and witnessing a hot trio in a smokey club.

If you've ever flipped through the pages of a National Geographic magazine published before the 1990s, you are familiar with Kodachrome. The combination of a legendary film and state of the art printing just can't be matched by today's digital images viewed on computer screens.

Heck, you have to drop at least $30K for a digital camera that even comes close to the resolving power and detail Kodachrome brought to the table.

Says Steve McCurry, who shot the iconic portrait of an Afghan refugee in 1985 on Kodachrome:

"It's definitely the end of an era," he said of Kodachrome. "It has such a wonderful color palette ... a poetic look, not particularly garish or cartoonish, but wonderful, true colors that were vibrant, but true to what you were shooting."

Yeah, I'm showing my age, but those of you that didn't pick up a camera until the digital era just don't know what you missed.

Steve McCurry's website

Wednesday, July 21, 2010 | posted in , | 2 comments [ More ]

The best light available – in a flash


Low light? No problem - usually. Available light can be beautiful.
We photogs are always thinking about light. I posted, a while back, about the interplay between light and shadow, and how it can make or break a photograph. Some photographers simply have a gift for seeing light and using it to create a special quality to their photographs. Sebastiao Salgado is one of those that comes to mind. He always shoots in black and white, but the light is one of the first qualities that jumps out at you. And it's always available, existing light, sometimes in conditions where some of us would just give up and not even bother to shoot. It's truly a gift to be able to see like that.
I'm a big proponent of available light photography and it's usually how I approach most assignments. By using available light, I can operate less obtrusively. It allows me to become more of a fly on the wall instead of being the center of attention. It's also a challenge, both technically and creatively, to figure out how to use available light to your story-telling advantage. Fortunately, today's latest professional level digital cameras are much more sensitive to light and create higher quality results than even the most sensitive film. (Sorry point-and-shoot owners. These low-light advantages don't yet extend to inexpensive consumer cameras due to 1) cost, and 2) the laws of physics. If you're interested in the technical reasons, try this link: What Is... ISO)
But the amount of light isn't the only consideration. First, there's the quality of the light. Is it hard, creating contrast and deep shadow areas? Or is it soft, with little or no shadows or contrast? You have to consider the direction your subject is being illuminated from: are any shadows working for you or against you? Sometimes the color of the light is a consideration, especially when you have mixed light sources, such as direct sunlight, shade, incandescent light bulbs, or florescent lights. They all have a different hue, and that can cause problems when they are mixed together.
Flash allowed me to make a better portrait by
    filling in ugly mid-day shadows and cleaning
    up a busy background.
So what do I do when the quantity and quality of light are working against me? I gotta break out the flash. I have mixed feelings about flash photography. As I mentioned before, I prefer to work unobtrusively and fade into the background. I feel the pictures that result from this approach and the moments they depict are more honest. Sometimes, I worry about altering the existing scene by introducing artificial light. However, in the interest of professionalism, particular assignments or subjects (often portraits) simply call for some lighting help.
I have a great admiration for photographers who are masters of lighting their subjects. Like I said, light can make or break a photograph, and some photographers are extremely creative in the way they use flash. One of my favorites is Joe McNally, because his background is in photojournalism and the way he works and lights his subjects is closer to what I do than many of the fashion and portrait photographers famous for the look of their images.
W. Eugene Smith (whose quote is the inspiration for the name of this blog) was known for his dramatic use of available light in his photographs. But everything isn't always as it seems. Once, when asked by a student if available light was the best kind of light, Smith responded
"Available light is any damn light that is available! "
 Indeed, Smith often had to augment the existing light by stringing up flood lights due to the lack of film sensitivity in his day. However, once the lights were up, his subjects went about their lives as though they (the lights and Smith) weren't even there.
Unless I'm making a portrait that requires some measure of direction, I try to take the same approach as Smith when introducing flash to a scene.
Unlike commercial photographers who often use powerful studio strobes to drown out existing light, photojournalists usually try to keep their equipment to a minimum and are more interested in balancing flash with the existing light. There are two basic approaches to accomplishing this.

Using flash as fill
Mid-day sun needs help.
You may be familiar with the term fill flash. Essentially, it's using flash to reduce the amount of contrast between the highlights and shadows in a scene. With today's digital cameras, it's a fairly easy operation. Expose for your scene highlights, and the camera will automatically determine how much flash is needed to fill in the shadows. This is especially useful outdoors at mid-day or indoors when the main source of light is overhead. Light from above is notorious for creating deep shadows in the eye sockets and under the nose. You can overdo fill flash. Too much, and your scene looks unnatural. But a subtle use of fill flash can open up those faces in the shadows. 
Fill-flash saves the day.
Even basic consumer point-and-shoot cameras are capable of pretty decent fill flash results, and I would recommend using fill flash outdoors during the middle of the day. Just find out how to take your flash out of the automatic mode, turn it on, and let your camera do the work. You might be surprised at how a little fill flash can really make your photos pop!

Using available light as fill
Sometimes, your light levels are just too low and you need some help to make publishable images. In these cases, the flash becomes your main light. However, you still have to balance it with the existing light unless you want your subjects floating in space. In essence, your existing light become the fill. When using this approach, the best results are achieved if you can get your flash off the camera. On-camera flash produces flat light. You lose any sense of shape and three-dimensionality. Most camera manufacturers make sync cords that maintain full exposure functionality so you can hold the flash off to the side or place it on a light stand. Those cords can be unwieldy, however. My trusty Nikon Speedlight offers an additional option - wireless flash. Thanks to the folks at Nikon and their Creative Lighting System (CLS), I can place my flash almost anywhere and still maintain full control right from the camera. It's a great option to add natural looking light from nearly any direction.

One flash with diffuser dome, camera left, on a stand about 10 feet high, fired wirelessly, creates a soft-but directional light. With the existing light used as a fill, it creates a nice, natural three-dimensional look.
Unbalanced flash = lost in space


Off-camera flash isn't an option for most point-and-shoot cameras. And at low light levels, the built-in flash often overwhelms any ambient light. You've probably seen the results: faces floating in space. Many consumer cameras have a flash mode often referred to as "slow." If your camera has this mode, it will utilize slower shutter speeds to better balance the flash with the available light. You might get a little image blur in the background at times, but try it and see if you like the results.

One more tip - soften it up
Most natural sources of light bounce all over the place, reflecting off of many surfaces, producing a softening or diffusing effect. A bare electronic flash tube creates extremely hard light from a small source. That combination is undesirable because it typically produces a harsh, unnatural quality of light with ugly shadows. There are many tricks to make the light from your electronic flash appear more natural. 
If your flash head can tilt and swivel, you can point it towards the ceiling or a wall. This is referred to as bounce flash(Gotta give Canon and their tutorials a little love, too) The resulting light will bounce off the surface, producing a much softer, broader light for a more natural look. However, light bounced off the ceiling will still produce the same undesirable shadows as any light source from above, only softer and less contrasty. To combat that, you can attach a "bounce card" to your flash to redirect some of the light forward to fill in the shadows. There are many commercially produced bounce devices, but anything with a white surface will work – even a piece of paper.
Another approach is to diffuse the light by putting something white and translucent in front of the flash to soften and spread out the light. (Don't cover your lens, though!) Again, there are many commercial products that can accomplish this, but you can use anything that's handy, in a pinch. My flash shipped with a white, plastic translucent dome that fits right over the flash head. It diffuses light forward and to the sides. If I tilt the flash head upwards, the light goes in all directions, giving me the benefits of both diffusion and bounce flash. It's about as natural and soft as as you can get from a small light source. In fact, it almost never comes off my flash.
Putting it all together: flash with a dome diffuser bounced off the ceiling and balanced with existing light allowed me to capture a story-telling moment in dim lighting conditions.

Diffusion and bounce flash are problematic for point-and-shoot cameras. Most of their built-in flashes are fixed and very close to the lens. About the only advice I have for you is to try this: Do-It-Yourself - Ten-Second Flash Diffusion. Let me know if it works!

In the end ...
Electronic flash is just another tool in the arsenal. The main objective is still to tell stories, share moments, and make connections.  Personally, I'll take the golden glow of evening light that Mother Nature graces us with over anything artificial. (The light at dawn is amazing, too, but anyone who knows me understands that it's going to take a significant assignment for this night owl to roll out of bed in those wee hours.)
Anyway, I'm done with this lighting tutorial. There are numerous resources by those more knowledgeable and talented than I. For more reading on flash photography, try these blogs:


Strobist by David Hobby



Photographers are "Story Catchers"

This is a short video clip from one of my (frequently mentioned) heroes, David LaBelle, during his annual Pictures with Purpose workshop.

 

Maybe that should be on my business card:

Scott Bryant, Story Catcher

Sunday, July 11, 2010 | posted in | 0 comments [ More ]

Lag is a drag: Tips for shooting candids with point-and-shoots

Can you say "Cheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeese?"

Back from vacation. Nine days away from the grind of daily newspaper production. It was nice, but vacation with a 2-year-old can be hard work, too. I've been back on the job a few days, finding my sea legs, thinking about something worthwhile to write about.

One of the things I discovered on vacation, much to my chagrin, is that someone has taught my son to say "Cheese!" when a camera makes an appearance.

Chagrin? That's cute, you say. Right?

Well, first, that "cheese" is really a "chaaaaaaaaaaaaaayze" which results in anything but a smiling, happy face. Second ...

Okay, I'll admit it. I can be a snob. I just can't abandon my professional approach when photographing family and friends. I'm a passionate admirer and advocate of candid photography. Always. To the point that I think some people are afraid of (or annoyed with) me.

Now don't get me wrong. I enjoy great portraiture. There are tons of photographers who have a gift for using light and working with subjects that results in memorable photographs. That takes great skill and talent. But I'll confess it drives me crazy when I watch folks with cameras proceed to line up their subjects and either elicit silly faces and poses, or wait – seemingly forever, sometimes – for everyone to put on their "best" faces.

No cheeseball here. Just a real moment between 
father and son.

If those kinds of pictures constitute memories for folks, that's great. Photography should be fun. Me? I guess I prefer my family photos to be like my news photos – real. Honest depictions of what really happened. Of how people really looked and acted instead of how they behaved for the benefit of a camera.

It can be a challenge, both with family and on the job, when some people freak out at the sight of a camera. But I persist in my candid approach, much to the chagrin (there's that word again) of others. I think it's worth the effort, though. You can win people over when they see the results.

I learned a few things myself about shooting candids over vacation. I borrowed a point-and-shoot camera so I wouldn't have to lug my work gear down to the beach and other locales. That would feel too much like work and I was, well, on vacation.

One thing, for sure, is that point-and-shoot cameras are made to make snapshots easy-peasy, Unfortunately, they are not built to make candid photography a breeze. Internet social networks are saturated with cheeseball pictures, and it's no wonder. These cameras are designed and built for cheeseball. You take the camera out of the box and commence to shooting. It's not long before the complaints start. Why are my pictures blurry? or Why won't the thing take a picture when I push the button? The fact is, the default settings on nearly all point-and-shoot cameras are designed to shoot still lifes – not living, breathing, moving people.

The reason for this post is to pass on what I learned during my getaway. If you want to learn how to shoot candid photographs of your friends and loved ones with your point-and-shoot camera, here are some tips.

Lag is a drag

I knew Jasper would turn and look
when his mother called out to him.
Anticipation is key.

The first thing you must be aware of is something called lag time, and there are two types of lag time you need to be aware of. The first is unavoidable. A brief amount of time passes between the time you see something, your brain processes it, you press the shutter release, and the camera actually makes the picture. If you wait until you see a moment to press the button, you've missed it. So anticipation is extremely important in candid photography. In reality, you must press the button slightly before the moment you want to capture actually happens. How much before? That depends on how fast your brain and finger work together. And it depends on the second type of lag time: shutter lag.

The shutter is the little mechanism in every camera that opens and closes to let light in and make an exposure. There is a small, but measurable amount of time between when you press the button and the shutter actually opens. Many of you may have probably experienced it – you push the button and the camera hesitates before it actually takes a picture.

Cameras differ in the amount of shutter lag, and it is usually commensurate with the cost of the camera – the cheaper the camera, the longer the lag time. Shutter lag is measured in milliseconds with costlier cameras and basically unnoticeable. Shutter lag in point-and-shoot cameras is usually noticeable and often aggravating. Ultimately, you are going to have to get a feel for the shutter lag with your particular camera and learn to anticipate moments.

Red-eye reduction is the devil

Nice moment. Devil eyes.

Red-eye. You know. When your subjects' eyes take on that demonic glow. It's caused by the light from your flash reflecting off the retina. Unfortunately, if you like to capture spontaneous moments, the cure is worse than the ailment. To battle red-eye, camera manufacturers have programed cameras to set off a series of preflashes that reduce the size of your subjects' irises, hence eliminating red-eye. And you've probably seen it in action: a camera-wielder gets everyone in position, tells them to smile, mashes the shutter release button, and the preflashes begin. Some subjects think the preflashes are the actual exposure and change their positions or expressions. The results are pictures with half the subjects still smiling while the other half look like they're already walking away. Sometimes those pre-flashes last so long, I think I can go grab a cup of coffee and still make it back in time for my picture to be made.

Easy fix

If you ever want to delve into candid photography, turn off red-eye reduction. DO IT NOW! That means you will have to explore your camera's menu or (gasp!) read the manual because red-eye reduction is almost always turned on by default.

Besides, red-eye is very easy to remove from your pictures. Most photo-sharing web sites, like Flickr or Picasa, have re-touching options you can perform on-line. Even your neighborhood photo processing lab usually has software that automatically removes red-eye. So don't worry about those ghastly glows when you view your pics in your camera's LCD. It's an easy fix and you'll be glad you captured a meaningful moment, instead.

The Little Green Monster

One of the things people love about today's point-and-shoot cameras is that they can take it out of the box and start shooting pictures. But that's only true to a point. Like I said, the complaints start quickly. Every camera I know of has several shooting modes, and the default mode is the green "A." A for automatic. Set it and forget it. But the automatic mode is limited and not typically suitable for shooting anything that moves. Especially people. So explore some of your camera's other settings. In fact, this may be necessary if you want to eliminate red-eye reduction because the default "A" mode often won't let you make modifications.

"A" is not for action.

Many cameras have a shooting mode especially for action or sports. It is often designated by a symbol showing a person running, or something similar. This is a good starting point for shooting candid pictures because this mode is tailored for stopping action, and that's what you want. Go ahead and try out other modes, too. Experiment and see which ones work best for you. Don't be afraid to leave the "A."

Wait for the moment

Iconic photography pioneer Henri Cartier-Bresson coined a term: The Decisive Moment. This is what he said:

"There is a creative fraction of a second when you are taking a picture. Your eye must see a composition or an expression that life itself offers you, and you must know with intuition when to click the camera. That is the moment the photographer is creative..."

That's the essence of candid photography. Fill the frame with your subjects beforehand. Find your best angle. Create an interesting composition in your LCD or viewfinder. Then wait for life to happen before you. Just be patient. It will happen. It always does. And the satisfaction of capturing those life moments is worth the wait.

Sometimes, the best face is no face at all

The "face" of a 2-year-old.

Pictures can tell the story of your life, and of those around you. A happy, smiling face doesn't always tell the story, though, does it? Maybe the best way to remember your goofy-but-hilarious friend is to shoot his or her picture being goofy. Maybe the bed-head we wake up with at the beach house is more memorable and representative than the picture at the restaurant with perfect hair and makeup.

I've argued this point with editors in newsrooms, and I'll make the same argument to casual snapshooters: sometimes a face isn't necessary at all. Things like scale, and juxtaposition, and body language are all that's necessary to capture the essence of a moment.

Shoot lots and lots … and lots of pictures

You'll end up with more throwaway pics than keepers. This is simply the nature of candid photography. To get good at it, you'll have to practice. By practicing, you'll develop the necessary intuition, anticipation, and patience to capture the spontaneous moments in life you really want to remember.

Worried about filling up your camera's memory card with all those duds that accompany the money shots? Here's one of the beauties of digital photography: you have a delete button. Use it, too, because everyone's a photo editor, these days. Don't show them the outtakes, or you might scare some people off. Just show 'em the good stuff, and you'll be the envy of all your friends and family.

By the way, my wife Kathryn shot many of these pictures, so you don't have to be a pro to capture candid moments with a point-and-shoot. Just have fun!

Three duds. One money shot by my wife Kathryn.

Friday, July 9, 2010 | posted in , | 1 comments [ More ]

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